Don't use crescent wrenches or pliers on
the nuts and fittings on this vehicle.
5 mm allen key
Rubber Mallet
Parts Needed
Rear Rack
Main Frame
2 6.0 MM 1.0 tpm stainless steel socket head screws 16 MM long
Check inside of rack sleeves on back of rear axle for rough edges. Put
light film of grease on
inside of sleeves and end of rack rails that slide into sleeves. Slide rails into sleeves, tap back of rack
gently with
rubber mallet. Check that rack is slid all the way into sleeves. Tighten
socket head screws.
.
Inserting the seat frame and sliding the rear seat sleeves
into
place is a delicate procedure that requires three hands until you're
practiced at it.
First check the rear seat sleeves for rough edges loosen socket head screw and lightly grease the insides.
Then check the front seat sleeves for rough edges loosen socket head screw and lightly grease the insides.
Next slide the seat sleeves over the rear seat stays taking care not to
scratch the paint. Pry the sleeves
carefully apart with a nylon tire lever
if you need to. Make certain screw heads are pointed in and
binder clamps are facing forward.
Now hold these sleeves in place and slide the front seat rails into the
front seat sleeves and slide rear
seat sleeves over seat plugs on top of
axle at rear of main frame.
Tap
seat frame lightly at top of arch with rubber mallet to set seat in place
and tighten all socket screws with 5 MM allen wrench.
Lining up all four points at once can be a trick get some help for this
the first time.
Seat is shown with seat frame already
inserted. Wrap single strap around main tube and secure with velcro
between seat pads.
Where ever a clamp fits over the powder coat finish it is likely to
scratch it or wear on it. It's one of
those little trade offs like
increased weight for durability.
Always check for rough edges Loosen clamp completely and lightly grease
all parts except for the
pedal assembly.
Now that you have the seat frame assembled it is time to put the cordura
hood over
the back of the seat frame with the buckles in the back.
Take
the two straps that are on the hood go through the top loops on
the back of the seat and then through the slits in the seat hood under the top
of the seat frame from front to back through the slit in
the back of the seat hood and then through the buckles. Pull the straps tight and
weave back through the buckles to lock in place.
Weave the strap through
the top two loops from top to bottom then through the
slits then through the buckles and finally after tightening weave it back through the buckles
to lock.
Although this method works fairly well the straps should be checked and tightened regularly.
Loosen or tighten straps to
adjust the tension on the seat and how much of a bucket feel it has.
Which affects how up right the rider sits. A big person with a lot of upper body
weight should leave
the seat fairly slack. This will keep the weight lower
and maximize the stability of the trike.
The seat can be tightened all the way to give a trampoline effect that
holds the rider against the pedals
and kind of sets up a balance between
the riders weight and the pedals that give you the feeling of
half standing. This is a very aggressive posture on this trike and will take
some getting used to. Your
weight will be higher so you have to use more caution in the corners. You should be able to sprint and
accelerate somewhat better in this position. You're also kind of doing a constant
crunch to keep
looking forward so its great for the abs.
What I have learned to do is leave the seat slack and use my shoulders
and lift my hips up when
I want the effect of the tighter seat.
The brakes have been removed for packing. Remove the nut and washer
leaving the thick concave
washer on the brake bolt. Insert the brake bolt through the brake block from underneath and align the
thick washer underneath the brake block with the high points in the front and in the
back. Now place the
washer on the brake bolt and then the nylock nut. Tighten with a ten mm wrench. Be carefull to center
brakes with even spacing on both sides of the rim.
Separate halves of the bottom bracket sleeve Check inside of sleeve for
any rough spots. Wrap sleeve
around main boom hold in place and install four 6.0x1.0x16 mm stainless steel socket head cap screws
and run in a couple of threads. Take tape measure or yard stick and measure from bottom
seat rail to
center of crank arm. If you have a 30 inch inseam you would
set this measurement at 25" move sleeve approximately one inch for
each inch difference in leg length. There are other factors like type of
shoes,
pedals and riding style that effect pedal position. Play around
with this carefully to get it just right.
Now that you have it where you think you want it start working your way
around the four cap screws
tightening them evenly while aligning the bottom of the bottom bracket casing with the cross drive tube
and the chain rings on the crank arms with the gears on the freewheel. This is
really critical take your
time and be careful to minimize the scratching on the main boom.
The
alignment of the pedal assembly relative
Special care should be taken when installing or adjusting the
location
or angle of the pedal assembly.
The sleeve which allows you to adjust the pedal assembly wraps tight
around the boom and should be loosened completely before adjusting
to avoid damage to paint.
Always tighten socket head screws evenly when
tightening any of the sleeves on this trike.
4 6x1.0x16mm stainless steel socket head cap screws hold the pedal
assembly
sleeve in place. Always loosen completely before moving pedal
sleeve and tighten
evenly when finished.
This picture shows the old adjustable aluminum steering rods that have been
replaced by the stainless steel rods. If you have these kinds of steering rods let us know
and we will
replace them with the Stainless Steel Rods.
Step 7 Adjusting chain length
If
the steering handles can drop down to where they
lock out and can't be pulled back in line with one hand the rods have been adjusted too short
readjust
the and try again
You remove steering lever by backing out 8mm socket head cap screw with 6mm allen key. Be careful not to scratch the main tube. When you reassemble the steering lever assembly place the inside bearing on the stud on the main frame first then slide the handle into place and re tighten socket head cap screw. If there were any washers or spacers put them back where they were.
Crank set
Dotek 175 mm single ring alloy crank
set with 46 tooth chain ring 110mm spacing
The
Cartridge bottom bracket is a Shimano UN-52
122 mm x 68mm
The Pedals are Wellgo ATB
with power grips The pedals require a 15 mm open end wrench to tighten.
The crank arms require a 14 mm socket. Both should be tightened
periodically. The chain ring bolts
require a 5 mm allen wrench and is 110mm spacing like old road chain rings. You can put a second
ring up front and change it by hand but I think you will find you have a large enough
range of gears
without it. You may want to go to a 52 tooth ring up front to push up your top end especially if you get
the windshield.
Another nice upgrade is SPD's for the maximum of efficiency. More on that
in riding style .
The whole assembly is connected to a sliding sleeve that wraps around
the main boom and tightens with
4 6.0 x1.0 x16mm stainless steel socket head cap screws.
Sachs Power grip or Wavy 7 spd
shifters. The cable housings are Shimano compatible S.I.S. and if
replaced should be replaced with same or like cable housing. Keeping these cables
clean and well
greased will improve shifting response dramatically.
The free wheels are SACHS Arris seven speed.
The freewheels are removed and installed just like
any freewheels with a shimano or park free wheel puller except on the rear wheel which requires a
free wheel puller with a half inch hole in it to allow clearance for the
half inch axle.
The derailleur is a SACHS NEOS Short or medium
cage. The Rear derailleurs are screwed into
the derailleur hangers with a
4 mm allen key just as on a standard bike. If you are using a short
cage derailleur be sure to tighten the wrap adjustment screw all the way
in to keep the upper pulley wheel on the derailleur from coming in contact with
the larger rings on
the freewheel.
The set up of the derailleur is identical to that of a standard bike.
Set the upper and lower limit screws
to allow for the proper range of motion of the derailleur and set the cable while the Shift levers are at
their highest setting and the chain is on the smallest cog of the free
wheel and in line with the
upper pulley wheel on the derailleur arm. This is an experience thing and should initially at least be dealt
with by a qualified mechanic. At least look at the literature specific to the
derailleur on your trike
The wheel should have been previously positioned and locked in place
WITH THE WHEEL CENTERED ON THE BRAKES
Tighten the axle nut up against the frame with a 3/4" thin open end wrench.
In
both cases the chain length should allow enough slack to go up into
the larger rings on the free wheel without to much slop when the chain is on
the small rings again this is an experience thing and should be dealt with
initially at least by a qualified mechanic. Refer to the instructions specific
to the derailleur on your trike.
The
cross drive which delivers the power from the
crank set to the rear wheel is an aluminum shaft riding on cartridge
bearings with a Shimano 18 tooth free wheel on one end and a 7 speed Arris
free wheel on the other.
The cross drive is held in place by two 3/8" 24 tpi stainless steel
nuts that are backed up on the other side of the cross drive drop outs by
two stainless steel bushing. The shorter of which goes on the single free
wheel side. The rod is positioned
evenly with the bushings to allow the same length of thread on either end. The bushings are adjusted to
be snug on the bearing races but not tight, the cross drive is then slid into
place in the grooves of the
cross drive dropouts with the multiple
freewheel in the center of the trike. Then two stainless lock
washers are slid onto the rod and the nuts are threaded on and tightened after
checking for proper alignment.
This is the heart of the trike when doing a tune up or preventive
maintenance you should focus your attention in this area.
the rear wheel with a standard freewheel.
The drive train is extremely reliable and simple to
adjust or upgrade.
Stand the vehicle on its rack on a pad. I
find that an
automotive floor mat works well for this make sure that
the paint is protected from the floor. You may want to do this on a concrete
floor if you intend to use petroleum based
solvents or lubricants.
This lifts the rear wheels off the ground and places the front
derailleur at waist height and the rear derailleur at seated on the floor
height. Now you can pedal the trike clean and lube the chains, adjust the
derailleurs, etc.
Head
sets are pressed in with a trusty Brengheli
Fork
crown races are cut to accept bearing race for headset.
Forkrace in place and ready to assemble.
Make
sure all surfaces are clean and well greased prior to assembly
Always
set headsets with two wrenches to lock fork in place with no
lateral movement allowed in the fork while not inhibiting rotation of fork in headset.
Various
steps in assembling the headsets.
Axles should be adjusted so that the center of the tire is approximately
in the center of the brake block
hole and then the 1/2" stainless lock nut should be tightened up against the frame with a thin 3/4"
open end wrench.